Field notes, honestly written.

Park Guides

Queen Elizabeth National Park: The Complete Safari Guide

Kasenyi, Mweya, Ishasha, Kyambura and Maramagambo: the sectors, activities, lodges and how many days you need in Queen Elizabeth.

25 September 2026 · 4 min read

Park Guides

Bwindi’s Four Sectors: Buhoma, Ruhija, Rushaga and Nkuringo

Your gorilla permit is tied to one sector. How Buhoma, Ruhija, Rushaga and Nkuringo differ, and how to choose between them.

25 September 2026 · 5 min read

Park Guides

Tarangire National Park: Elephants, Baobabs and the River

Why Tarangire fills with elephants in the dry season, how the river shapes the park, and when to fit it into a northern Tanzania safari.

25 September 2026 · 4 min read

Park Guides

Pemba Island: Zanzibar’s Quiet, Green Sister

Wall dives, Misali Island’s reefs, clove plantations and the rare Pemba flying fox: a guide to the Zanzibar archipelago’s quieter island.

25 September 2026 · 4 min read

Park Guides

Lake Manyara National Park: Soda Lake, Forest and Flamingos

A compact park beneath the Rift Valley wall: groundwater forest, seasonal flamingos, the treetop walkway and the lions that sometimes climb trees.

25 September 2026 · 4 min read

Park Guides

The Ngorongoro Crater: A Guide to Africa’s Great Caldera

How the crater formed, where to look for black rhino, the rules for descending to the floor, and how Maasai life and Olduvai Gorge fit in.

25 September 2026 · 4 min read

Park Guides

The Sectors of Murchison Falls National Park, and Where to Stay

North bank, south bank, the Top of the Falls, Budongo and Rabongo: how Uganda’s biggest park fits together, and which lodge suits each part.

25 September 2026 · 5 min read

Park Guides

Top Things to Do in Murchison Falls National Park

Game drives, the Nile launch, the Top of the Falls hike, the shoebill delta, Budongo chimps, Ziwa rhinos and fishing: how to fit them in.

25 September 2026 · 5 min read

Park Guides

Ajai Wildlife Reserve: Rhinos Return to West Nile

Ajai was created for northern white rhinos. In January 2026, rhinos came home. Here’s the history, the wildlife and how to get there.

25 September 2026 · 5 min read

Park Guides

Sipi Falls: Waterfalls, Coffee and Abseiling on Mount Elgon

Three waterfalls, Arabica coffee farms, abseiling and big views over the plains. Our guide to Sipi Falls and where to stay.

25 September 2026 · 5 min read

Park Guides

Uganda’s Most Beautiful Waterfalls

From the thundering Nile at Murchison to Sipi, Ssezibwa, Kisiizi and Aruu: the waterfalls worth planning a trip around.

25 September 2026 · 5 min read

Park Guides

Kidepo Valley National Park: Uganda’s Wildest Park

Remote, uncrowded and ringed by mountains: the Narus Valley, cheetahs, returning rhinos, Karamojong and Ik culture, and whether to fly or drive.

25 September 2026 · 5 min read