Lions are not known for climbing trees. They’re heavy, and most prefer to rest in the shade on the ground. But in the Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park, in south-western Uganda, lions regularly haul themselves up into big fig trees and sprawl along the branches, legs dangling. It’s one of the most memorable sights in East Africa.
Where is Ishasha?
Ishasha is the remote southern part of Queen Elizabeth, close to the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo. It’s a landscape of open grassland dotted with large fig trees and acacias, with the Ishasha River on one side. Herds of Uganda kob and topi graze the plains, and buffalo and elephants pass through. The lions here are known for their tree habit, and the males often have dark manes.
Why do they climb?
Nobody knows for certain, and it’s probably a mix of reasons. The main ideas are:
- Keeping cool: a few metres up, there’s more breeze and less heat from the ground.
- Escaping insects: branches may offer some relief from biting flies in the grass.
- A better view: from a tree, lions can watch the kob and topi on the plains.
- Learned behaviour: cubs grow up watching adults climb, so the habit passes from one generation to the next.
Lions in a few other places, such as Tanzania’s Lake Manyara, also climb, but Ishasha is where it happens most reliably.
A population under pressure
Ishasha’s lions are few and precious. Queen Elizabeth’s lion population has fallen sharply in recent years, mainly because of poisoning after livestock losses and trade in body parts. In 2021 six lions were found dead in Ishasha, and in December 2025 four lions were poisoned elsewhere in the park. UWA and researchers now monitor the prides closely. Every visit supports that work through park fees, and a lion in a tree is never guaranteed. Read more in our post on the lions of Uganda.
The best time to see them
- Time of day: late morning to mid-afternoon, when it’s hottest and the lions head up into the trees to rest. Early mornings are better for seeing them on the move.
- Season: Uganda’s drier months, roughly December to February and June to September, make the tracks easier and the lions easier to spot. Lions climb all year round, but the black-cotton soil roads in Ishasha can get very muddy in the rains.
- Give it time: a full afternoon, or a night in Ishasha, gives you much better odds than a quick pass through.
Fitting Ishasha into your trip
Ishasha sits on the natural route between the northern part of Queen Elizabeth (Mweya, Kasenyi and the Kazinga Channel) and the Buhoma sector of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Many of our guests do a game drive in Ishasha on the way to their gorilla trek, or spend a night there to break the journey. The road continues past the Kigezi Wildlife Reserve towards Kihihi and Buhoma.
To stay in Ishasha itself, Ishasha Wilderness Camp is a comfortable tented camp by the Ntungwe River. Other guests stay in the north of the park or near Buhoma and visit Ishasha on a long day.
What else you’ll see in Ishasha
Even when the lions are hiding, Ishasha is a rewarding place for a game drive. The open plains hold large herds of Uganda kob, and it’s one of the best places in the park for topi, a handsome antelope with a glossy, purplish coat. Buffalo are common, elephants move through the area, and the Ishasha River has hippos. Birdlife is excellent too, from raptors perched in the fig trees to storks and herons along the water. The atmosphere is quieter and wilder than the busier north of the park, and you’ll often have a sighting all to yourself.
Practical tips
- Stay in the vehicle and never park directly under a tree with lions in it.
- Keep your voice down and don’t try to attract the lions’ attention.
- Bring a zoom lens. A 200–400 mm lens is ideal; lions in the leaves can be hard to pick out with a phone.
- Pack water and snacks. Ishasha is remote and there are few facilities.
- Trust your guide. Experienced drivers know the favourite trees and follow UWA rules on where vehicles may go.
Plan it with us
We’ll fit Ishasha neatly into your Queen Elizabeth and Bwindi itinerary, with the right timing and a guide who knows the trees. Get in touch and we’ll plan it together.
