After the mud and the thrill of gorilla trekking, nothing beats a few slow days on Lake Bunyonyi. The lake winds between steep, terraced hills near Kabale, and it’s scattered with 29 islands, several of which have remarkable stories. The best way to see them is from the water.
About the lake
Bunyonyi lies at about 1,950 metres in the hills of south-western Uganda. Its name is usually translated as “place of many little birds”, and it was formed thousands of years ago when a lava flow blocked a river valley. The water is cool, deep in places, and generally considered free of bilharzia, so swimming is popular at several lodges.
The islands and their stories
- Akampene (Punishment Island). A tiny island with a single tree, and the lake’s most famous and saddest story. Until around the middle of the 20th century, unmarried girls who became pregnant could be left here as punishment. Many died, trying to swim to shore or from hunger; some were rescued by men who could not afford a bride price and took them as wives. Boats stop nearby while guides tell the story, and it’s a moment to listen quietly.
- Bwama Island. Dr Leonard Sharp, a missionary doctor who came to Kigezi in the 1920s, established a leprosy settlement here, where patients were treated and cared for for decades. After modern drug treatment made isolation unnecessary, the settlement closed, and the island is now home to a school.
- Njuyeera (Sharp’s Island). Next to Bwama, this was Dr Sharp’s family home. His house still stands and is now part of a lodge.
- Bushara Island. A wooded island linked to Dr Sharp’s work, now known for its peaceful island camp and walking paths.
- Itambira Island. Home to the Byoona Amagara eco-retreat, with simple accommodation and lovely views.
- Kyahugye Island. Known for its resort and the zebras and other animals kept there, a surprise in the middle of a highland lake.
By canoe or motorboat?
Motorboat tours are the easiest way to see several islands in two to three hours, with a guide telling their stories as you go. Dugout canoes are slower, quieter and more traditional. Paddle with a local guide, or join a guided trip that links a canoe ride with a hike. Kayaks are available at some lodges too.
Good combinations include a morning boat tour of Punishment Island, Bwama and Sharp’s Island, and an afternoon canoe along the shore to watch kingfishers and look for grey crowned cranes on the lakeside swamps.
More things to do
- Hike the ridges for views over the islands and terraces.
- Visit local markets on the lakeshore, where people arrive by canoe on market days.
- Birdwatch from your balcony: the lake lives up to its name.
- Swim, relax, and let your legs recover after trekking.
A two-day plan
- Day 1: arrive from Bwindi or Kabale, settle in, and take a sunset canoe paddle close to your lodge.
- Day 2: a morning motorboat tour of Punishment Island, Bwama and Sharp’s Island, lunch on the water’s edge, then a ridge hike or a swim in the afternoon.
- Next morning: leave early for Kampala, Lake Mburo or the Rwandan border, depending on your route.
Where to stay
- Byoona Amagara (budget): an island eco-retreat with geodomes and cabins.
- Bunyonyi Overland Resort (budget): popular lakeside rooms, cottages and camping.
- Arcadia Cottages Bunyonyi (mid-range): hilltop cottages with sweeping views.
- BirdNest Resort (mid-range): lakeside, with a deck over the water.
See all our options on the accommodation page.
Good to know
- The lake is 15 to 20 minutes from Kabale town and about 6 to 7 hours by road from Kampala.
- It’s an easy base for Bwindi’s southern sectors, Rushaga and Nkuringo. See Bwindi’s four sectors.
- Evenings are cool at this altitude, so bring a warm layer.
- Always wear a life jacket on the water, including in canoes, and agree the route and price with your boatman before setting off if you arrange a trip yourself.
- Two nights lets you rest and explore; one night is enough for a short boat trip.
Lake Bunyonyi is where many of our guests say their trip finally slowed down. Pair it with gorillas, or with nearby Lake Mutanda, and let us plan the boats, the canoes and the right lodge for you.
